Preparing your motorhome for winter

Anyone travelling in a motorhome and wanting to enjoy the ‘best days of the year’ should play it safe and always ensure their vehicle is in full working order. This protects you from unpleasant surprises and you’re sure to take pleasure in seeing your trusty travel companion looking its best.

After all, a motorhome in immaculate condition also retains its value, and should you ever wish to sell it, you’ll have no trouble finding a buyer.

If you follow the advice below regarding maintenance, care and winter storage, you’ll be on the road with a reliable and attractive motorhome for years to come.

Although modern motorhomes are generally suitable for travel during the cold season thanks to good insulation, an efficient heating system and heated fresh and waste water tanks, many – particularly larger motorhomes – are still not driven for extended periods.

It is therefore advisable to have your motorhome professionally ‘stored’; this way, you can wake it from its ‘slumber’ in the spring and start the travel season without any problems.

• It is advisable to store the motorhome in a hall or at least under a carport.
• The handbrake should not be applied; instead, put the vehicle in first gear and, if necessary, secure the motorhome with wheel chocks.

• In any case, you should remove all food and leave the fridge door open.
• Open all storage compartments, flaps and cupboards to allow for ventilation, and prop up the cushions.
• In a dry and clean hall, you should leave the windows open for ventilation; this relieves pressure on the rubber seals.
• Placing a dehumidifier in the centre of the vehicle helps to reduce humidity and prevents the formation of mould or ‘musty’ odours, amongst other things.
• Leave the taps in the middle position (for hot and cold water) open so that the water can drain from the hoses and no germs form.
• When cleaning the interior of the living area, there are only a few points to bear in mind and it is somewhat similar to ‘house cleaning’. However, the bathroom, the hob and the sink deserve special attention:
  • In the bathroom, do not use aggressive standard household toilet cleaners on the toilet, and avoid using aggressive cleaning agents on plastic surfaces. The toilet flush lever should be sprayed with silicone spray from time to time to ensure it remains smooth-running.
  • For the gas hob, which is fitted in most cases, and the sink, use a stainless steel cleaner.

• As a general rule, both the fresh water and the waste water must be drained. If this is forgotten, the ‘anti-freeze valve’ may open at low temperatures, causing the remaining fresh water from the tank and boiler to leak out into the hall, for example! This frost protection valve, which is usually located near the gas boiler, must be opened so that the system can be completely drained. During the draining process, the main switch (or fuse) for the fresh water pump must be switched off.
• The waste water tank should be flushed beforehand and left open after it has been completely drained.
• For safety’s sake, the gas cylinders are not only closed but completely disconnected from the hose.
• Before winterising, you should check the MOT sticker. The next inspection date may fall during the ‘hibernation’ period.
• In general, you should always keep an eye on tyre pressure (increase tyre pressure by around 0.5 bar) and engine fluids, topping them up as required. This primarily includes
  • engine oil (always follow the manufacturer’s specifications and guidelines),
  • brake fluid (visit a garage if there is a significant loss!),
  • coolant and
  • power steering fluid.
• Topping up the windscreen washer system is relatively straightforward.
• While we’re on the subject of fluids, beginners and rental customers in particular should take care not to accidentally fill the fresh water tank with fuel. This disastrous mix-up unfortunately happens very often and results in high costs due to the replacement of the entire fresh water system.
• Although the LPG system is inspected every two years by a TÜV NORD expert, you should always keep an eye on the gas pipe connections and the rubber hose. If you have a leak detection spray to hand, you can carry out a check. Otherwise, you can brush a homemade mixture of water and washing-up liquid onto the screw connections and test them. If small bubbles appear, there is a leak.
• With the hob, you can easily check whether the ignition safety device is working: simply blow out the flame and wait to see if the gas supply cuts off after a few seconds.

• As a general rule, vehicles must not be washed on private property. This is not necessary anyway, as many ‘car wash parks’ (self-service wash bays) have high-sided bays and also a platform or scaffolding from which you can easily wash the roof and the higher parts of the motorhome.
• After the initial clean with a high-pressure washer, care should be taken when washing to ensure that the acrylic windows are cleaned only with a soft sponge and light pressure, as they scratch easily. The high-pressure washer should also not be directed straight at the ventilation grilles of the fridge or the heating flue.
• Otherwise, a motorhome is washed in the same way as a normal car, using the appropriate cleaning products.
• There are special cleaning agents available for GRP mouldings (glass-reinforced plastic), such as the rear apron or the acrylic windows. Specialised cleaners also remove dark rain streaks or insect residues with ease. As many motorhomes have a protective film applied, you should not use aggressive cleaning agents and under no circumstances allow the product to sit for long periods.
• It is not just the engine that deserves attention, but also the living area. A special care product helps the numerous rubber seals on doors, windows and storage hatches retain their elasticity for longer. In the spring, the entire fresh water system should be sanitised. Furthermore, a leak test should be carried out, and you should always check for leaks around roof hatches and inside wall cupboards following heavy or prolonged rainfall.
• If, after washing the motorhome, you wish to restore the bodywork with a polish and then seal it with a wax, you should use a product suitable for the relevant surface (paint, plastic, film, etc.).
• After cleaning the paintwork and the GRP parts, it is advisable to apply a protective treatment.
• To ensure that the effort involved in working by hand or with a polishing machine on large surfaces is worthwhile, you should use waxes that offer long-lasting protection. Professional detailing products offer long-lasting protection, including through a ceramic sealant. This promises shine, lasting protection and less effort when washing.

• If you are storing your vehicle over the winter, you should still check on it from time to time and connect it to the mains to ensure the battery remains charged.
• The starter battery should be charged occasionally using a charger. It is particularly important at low temperatures that the battery voltage is sufficient.
• During longer periods of inactivity, it is also advisable to move the motorhome slightly to prevent the tyres from suffering flat spots.